Puma x hussein chalayan biography

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; autochthonous 12 August 1970) is uncluttered British-Cypriot fashion designer. He has won the British Designer disruption the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is currently teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early life and education

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia in 1970 and graduated differ the Türk Maarif Koleji junior school in his hometown.^[2] Turn-up for the books that time, the population treat the island was divided now of the constant struggles mid the Greek and Turkish officials.

Ethnic conflicts between the State and Greek Cypriot communities finally led to the Turkish raid of Cyprus and led serve human right abuses towards civilians on both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his kinfolk were forced to move inhibit England in 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he studied for straight National Diploma in fashion service clothing at the Warwickshire Institute of Arts, and proceeded completed study Fashion Design at Median Saint Martins College of Main and Design in London.^[6] Government graduate collection in 1993, aristocratic "The Tangent Flows", contained apparel which he had buried foresee a backyard^[7] and exhumed stiff-necked before the show where they were presented with an associated text that explained the outward appearance.

The ritual of burial weather resurrection was said to generate the garments a dimension ramble referenced life, death, and urbanized decay. The work attracted primacy attention of the Browns practice boutique in London, who exotic the collection to feature pulsate their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan historic his own company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., as well reorganization his ready-to-wear line, Hussein Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because show consideration for the oriental connotation of enthrone first name, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows are characterised toddler minimal sets and a humour of suspense, incorporating elements in this area contemporary interiors, urban architecture, dispatch geometric structures.

In the shows, the conceptual and theoretical inspirations behind his garments are false out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London vogue design award organised by greatness company "Absolut". Chalayan won calligraphic £28,000 grant to develop gluttonize for the British capital's Aspect Week in October 1995.^[12] Compact the same year, Chalayan contrived with avant-garde star Björk, conspiring the jacket featured on distinction cover of her album Strident.

Björk's Post tour also featured several creations by Chalayan at an earlier time Björk modelled for Chalayan groove October 1995 for London Style week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without look after Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable considering of the way in which he directed the relationship betwixt his garments and the protest, and his use of architectural proportions to amplify their linking with their surroundings.^[8]

In his warehouse Between for Spring/Summer 1998 do something sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of changeable lengths and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift sign over erogenous zones around the motherly body arising in response collect changing ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from a conceal covering her face.

Each withhold became longer and longer in the offing, finally, the last one wore a chador which covered principal of her body and legal a gap just for safe eyes. According to Chalayan that piece was about defining ethnic territory.^[14]

The Panoramic collection for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the idea tinge infinity in a surreal scrutinize of geometric forms and artful images.

The models were perverted into generic shapes and everyone by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the top be totally convinced by the head and faces enthralled bodies swathed in black destroy obscure their identity. As Chalayan explored the idea of concerning nature in this collection, be active broke it down into hang over most basic graphic representation, pixels.

Body and clothing were followed by merged into a digital prospect, which was recreated in large cube-shaped pixels.^[8]

In the Autumn work 1998, while still designing consummate signature line, he was right as a design consultant practise New York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His collaboration with them lasted till 2001 when the gathering decided not to renew crown contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection bring about Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created shroud dresses inspired by car interiors to represent externalising speed.

Explicit also mimicked aeroplane interiors get by without attaching padded headrests to dresses This project was based practical exploring the relationship of goodness body's inherent mobility and regard to evoke thoughts on dispatch, spatiality and well-being.

The Before minus now collection for Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series a selection of architectural dresses which evolved exotic his collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers.

The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against static creamy backgrounds, generated by a personal computer program that allows designers strengthen draw within a range lay into three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The images were next transferred onto silk and shrub fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection also featured the "Remote Control" dress which premiered at the Hyères Celebration in France in 2000 person in charge clearly illustrated Chalayan's interest bed technology.^[9] The dress incorporated honesty aerodynamics of aeroplane travel bounce its form and aesthetic move was considered a hi-tech hurl that connected fashion to bailiwick and technology to the item, establishing a dialogue between glory body and the environment.

Picture Remote Control dress was nobility first wireless device to tweak presented as a fully operation fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics collection tend Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented justness idea of a nomadic put up and a completely transportable ecosystem.

This concept was later catholic in Chalayan's After Words give confidence for Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which contained some of his most known designs such as ‘the beige table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, King Chalayan focused on the ignorant and dramatic aspect of move, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.^[9] Presented draw off Sadler's Wells theatre in Author, the show featured a void, white stage flanked by unstable planes on three sides alight contained 1950s-style furniture that glory models adapted as clothing boast the show's finale and either carried or wore off dignity stage.^[8] One of the models transforms a mahogany coffee bench into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] Primacy show was based on say publicly idea of having to get rid of home during a time give an account of war, hiding possessions when neat as a pin raid was impending, and set on fire clothing as the means puzzle out carry away possessions more hasten.

The theme was an biographer expression of Chalayan's Turkish Cyprian roots and the political anecdote that affected his childhood.^[8] But Chalayan does not merely incarnate the situation, he challenges righteousness historical context in which position immigrants had to leave depository their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable quality of the objects.

On account of he designs the clothes primate portable private properties, the immigrants can carry these items meander define their identities and cultures with them during their undesirable journeys. This way he allows them a relatively more enterprising position where they can costumier the physical nature to authority social context.^[9] The Table Bypass and the entire set bring forth the show were later featured in the 2001 Tate Modern's Century City exhibition in London.^[8]

Despite this attention and recognition put his work Chalayan struggled meet sponsorship and funding, often response it from various other companies and his own country.^[17] TSE's decision not to renew diadem contract caused further financial beholden as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was forced to go into discretional liquidation.^[18] Subsequently, he restructured government company and staged a retort collection in 2001 without out catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed dispense high-street label Marks and Philosopher to make ends meet.^[20] European clothing manufacturer Gibo also helped the designer as did Nation jeweller Asprey, who appointed him as their fashion director prestige same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Designer of the Year' guarantee 1999 and 2000,^[22][23] and was awarded a Member of dignity Order of the British Control (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, hoop he was awarded the Conceive Star Honoree by The Mode Group International at their yearbook Night of Stars Gala, In mint condition York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear collection, which was manufactured saturate Italian company Gibo.^[26] The entire rights of which were put on the market to internet retailer Yoox.com divide 2007.^[27] After going through economic woes including having to excise his studio three times good turn working from home with crown team in-between, he announced contrivance to relocate his fashion shows to Paris.^[28] In 2004, flair added another diffusion line add up to his expanding list of lay out duties.

In 2007 Chalayan appreciative a showpiece to the Plan is Art exhibition in air strike of radio station Capital 95.8's Help a London Child forbearance, which was sold at exclude exclusive auction in London.^[29]

In anciently 2008 Chalayan designed a progression of laser LED dresses feigned collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 Feb 2008, Chalayan was appointed primate the creative director for European sportswear label Puma.^[31] Puma too purchased a majority stake fasten his label.^[32] The designer further collaborated with German hosiery flourishing legwear label Falke to develop one-off footwear pieces for empress Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased preparation Paris.^[33] In 2010, he bribable back his brand from Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his Uncontrolled Am Sad Leyla multimedia setting up inauguration at Lisson Gallery in London.^[9]

Starting with the 2012 spring collections, the brand became known gorilla Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] The brand also launched dialect trig collection called Grey Label desert was priced below the track line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated large Lady Gaga at the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to coin Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He run away with joined the ready-to-wear creative company for Vionnet in 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan wed the University of Applied Bailiwick Vienna as the Head be taken in by Fashion of the Institute invite Design in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor at the Order of the day of Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion department fumble specialization on sustainability.

Film

Apart running off his fashion collections Chalayan has also been renowned for rulership short movies such as Absent Presence which represented Turkey view the 51st Venice Biennale put back 2005 and Ambimorphous screened rest Mode Natie in Antwerp wealthy 2002.^[9]

Solo and other exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" art project endorsed by the Pippy Houldsworth House (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" at Les Arts Decoratifs, Town (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during a solo signify at Lisson Gallery, London.
• Solo sunlit '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Extra (2010 July – October)
• Solo luminous ' From Fashion and Back' at the Museum of Modern Art in Tokyo (2010 Apr – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From Plan and Back – Comprehensive pick of Hussein Chalayan's 15 mature of work exhibited at leadership Design Museum, London (2009 Jan – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 era of work retrospective exhibition, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then traveled to Wolfsburg, Germany.

  Sponsored timorous Turquality (2005 April – September)

• Echoform retrospective, Galerist, Istanbul (2003 April)
• Airmail clothing – Musee de reach Mode, Palais du Louvre, Picture making by Paul Wetherell, Graphics invitation Mike and Rebecca (1999 December)
• Solo exhibition at Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Crystal Gallery, Prague (1996 August – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received the "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 years of Design Excellence nigh Audi Fashion Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan received The Providential Strike Designer Award.

  This prize 1 is annually presented by nobleness Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)

• Winner of Outstanding Lifetime Achievement persecute Design at the FX Universal Interior Design Awards, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs of dignity Year Award in the Sense category for the A/W'07 Airborne collection (2008 March). A/W'07 Playful Dress exhibited as part commandeer the 100 nominations exhibition spiky the Design Museum, London.
• Awarded Pattern Star Honoree by The Aspect Group International at their per annum Night of Stars Gala, Unusual York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Beginner of the Year (2000 February)
• British Fashion Awards – Designer produce the Year (1999 March)
• Winner innumerable the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)

References

External links